Chunky neon-pink sweaters were frayed at the hems and collars military parkas were color-blocked several steps beyond what would have gotten the point across and hard-shell bags hung from straps affixed front-to-back, like guitar slings. 445 Kennedy Cashmere Sweater 395 Ted T-shirt 115 Paris Trousers 235 Romare Ankle Boots 395. That mix recalled the mood of Marc by Marc Jacobs in its early-2000s heyday, as in a pair of skinny stretch leather trousers, worn by Jamie Bochert, knotted ’80s style at the waist, or a series of lacy slips in vivid contrasting colors. Tyler Patent Boots 455 ZV Initiale Le Long Unchained Wallet FASHION SHOW. “It’s about dressing in the four strong codes of the house: military, leather, knitwear, and lingerie,” Bönström continued. And if no on-the-go New Yorker-or even, for that matter, any seasoned runway model-could get very far in the spindly studded heels (much of the front row was on edge, just waiting for a wipeout), the collection was otherwise teeming with exactly the sort of fun, statement-y rock ’n’ roll staples that New Yorkers will no doubt scoop up en masse come back-to-school season. It was almost too much to take in, between the piecework and the fringe and the zippers and the slogan sweaters and the Hadids and the Baldwins.

Layers upon layers upon layers: That more or less sums up what was happening on the runway today.

Bönström is a Swedish woman, albeit one who has been a Parisienne for 25 years, which lends yet another layer to the narrative. “I was imagining the Parisian woman picking up the energy of the cool New York woman,” said Zadig & Voltaire artistic director Cecilia Bönström backstage at the house’s Fall presentation in Chelsea, describing her approach this season.

Boots zadig and voltaire